Northumbria and Scotland

Pilgrimage Overview

One thing leads to another...

I was captivated by the story of St Martin of Tours and the widespread legacy that he left behind, not only through his evangelical efforts of the 4th century, but by his foundations of Ligugé and Marmoutier, the first two Christian monasteries in Europe, and their persistence over the centuries as learning centers for countless, including many from the British Isles.  This admiration inspired my five-part pilgrimage to visit every town in France named for him.  From this, I understood how important Martin was to the history of Europe in general, and most directly, how he taught and inspired many visitors from the Celtic world at the time.  This kind of inspiration is the underpinning of a meaningful pilgrimage for all who follow - including me.

St Ninian, a cradle-Christian Briton of the British Isles studied at Marmoutier under St Martin.  Was he a Pict? a Gael? a Scot?... details are lacking, but it doesn't matter.  He knew and studied under Martin, likely speaking a mutually intelligible Celtic language as well as Latin.  "Return to your land, build churches, teach all..." or some words to that effect did Martin say to Ninian at the close of the 4th century.  The world was changing, the old guard reducing, new voices arising...

Ninian brought the seeds of Christianity into the hinterlands of Pictland in the northeast of the Isles, beyond the Roman influence.  His base of operations at Whithorn in Strathclyde, was the springboard for many future Saints who studied under him, Kentigern, affectionately called Mungo, was chief among them, and settled into what would become Galway.  Meanwhile, alliances brought the Scoti from Hibernia into Caledonia, forming the Dal Riata... where, a century or so after Ninian's death, Columba came from Ireland and settled in Iona with his companions.  Columba's great student Aidan was invited by the freshly annointed King of Northumbria to establish another Christian learning center at Lindisfarne.

Having walked a few thousand kilometers around Ireland to explore the lives and deeds of over 70 Saints from the 5th and 6th centuries, this pilgrimage is something of a continuation to see the wider impact of their efforts.  Several of those Irish Saints were noted as having studied under Ninian and at his center at Whithorn.

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After connecting with over 70 5th- and 6th-century Saints in Ireland last spring, I'm heading just a bit eastward.   I'll continue to honor the early Saints Scotland and Northumberland up to the Synod of Whitby in 664.  The lay of the land was quite different in this time period, and dynamic through the violence and machinations of local rulers.  Generally, there were four people-groups living in four areas, and speaking four languages: 

• the Scoti at Dal Riata speaking Gaelic with strong tribal ties to Ireland;

• the Picts in Pictland speaking Brittonic;

• the Britons in Strathclyde speaking Cumbric; and

• a mix of encroaching Angles and local Britons in Bernica and Deira, which became united as Northumbria in 629 speaking Old English

So far, I've identified nearly 50 Saints in these areas in this timeframe.  I won't be able to visit the places where all of these noteworthy men and women of yore lived, thrived, and died in their time.  I'll honor some from a bit of a distance.  

With my years of pilgrimage experience around the world, I know the transformative power of walking where saints once walked—feeling the harsh winds, trudging through the marshes and brambles, experiencing the same rugged landscapes that shaped their spiritual lives.  The pilgrimage itself, with its hardships and uncertainties, is an essential part of understanding their devotion and motivation—a true peregrinatio.

Through this pilgrimage, I aim to experience firsthand the landscapes that shaped their spirituality.  By engaging with local communities near these historic monastic sites, I hope to rekindle appreciation for their rich heritage, fostering connections and trust—the foundation of peace.  Focusing on the 5th to 7th centuries, I trace the roots of Christianity in what has become Scotland and Northumberland.  This journey is both a tribute and a quest to embody the spirit of faith, perseverance, and community that these saints exemplified.

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A Pilgrimage in the Present

This journey is deeply personal.  Like all of my solo pilgrimages, I will not be sharing updates from the road - no blogs, social media, or live tracking.  On pilgrimage, I bear my cross, neither taking thought for the morrow nor looking back at what had been left.  I prefer to communicate with the people I am with.

The embedded map shows my planned route - the itinerary is under development, but the pink dots are 'must-visit', the brown are important monastic settlements, the yellow are modern monasteries.